Bugatti

23 мая 2014 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Bugatti отключены
Bugatti Electric Cars

There are times in the boatbuilder’s day nothing more can be done on the because of drying glue, or or some other inevitable This is not wasted time: it room for a second project!

become a grandfather in 2006, my have been turned to specifically pedal cars. The stuff I was encouraged to buy for a few hundred might be all very well for intended users, but they a certain élan. How much would it be to make one!

are a number of plans available for cars, but the one I chose was the Stevenson for a pedal Bugatti Type 35. The also published a book years ago on a build-it-yourself downhill for 10 year olds, which under the Wodehousian name of the They now concentrate mainly on boat projects, but their is a serious attempt to capture the of the era, and cannot be bettered for the

Their website is http://www.stevproj.com/PedBBB.html.

really appeals to me about car, and all the Stevenson projects, is they are based on the sealing wax and philosophy: keep it simple. (In the of the Buffy-Porson that concept is literally what constitutes the system, which may account for why it is out of

The original Bugatti pedal car as designed by the Stevensons,

and a swank version (right).

In deciding to on any plan project from in this case the USA, one has to be of the limitations of available materials, here is Australia where is restricted and prices are high. is also often a problem metric versus Imperial This project certainly the point.

What follows is a of some of the material problems I and my ways of overcoming them. It some complaints about in the plans, and explains why I ended up such a narrow cabin in my !

1.The first hurdle is the which is specified for the rather wheels. The Schwinn bicycle used to make 16 inch x tyres to fit their S2 wheels, but not any They had a tread on them looked more like a car than a bicycle, but the emergence of BMX has just about killed off the so that now all you can get is the knobby type looks quite out of place on the Some old unused stock can be found on places like but at high prices, and their cannot be guaranteed.

The design of the means that the tyres run on the anyway, so their life must be limited. Even if you the specified Schwinn brand you have to replace them Some electric wheelchairs tyres of this size, but hardly look appropriate

You are probably best advised to get the offensive bike tyre you can and put up with it. The kid won’t mind in the

I eventually settled on tyres for bicycles from Australian All Vehicles, http://www.aaev.com.au They are not the profile of the original Schwinn but they are not the full knobby either. It is difficult enough to get 16 x tyres anyway, so I am just to get some which will

2.Next, remember that an American site calls for 1 x 6 it means before dressing. actually expect you to get some 3/4 stock. The plans call for fir Douglas) or spruce — luck.

But radiata pine also work for most of the with some light called for in the stress bearing

3.The biggest problem is in the supplies which are used to the drive train and steering For starters, they are of galvanised which is rapidly being by more modern materials. they are in a range of sizes just do not exist here any

For example, the king pins are up of 1/2 T pieces, joined to two 1 and one 3 nipple. Our have hex sections in the middle so their threads are not damaged by but the ones referred to in the plans are small pipes, threaded at ends. The lengths specified are not here as nipples.

Instead, either short pipes or all but in the latter case you will have to use brass instead of

Attached to the short nipples are 1/2 to 3/4 male bushings. We have but they need to be 1 long. are only 3/4 long. Since have to emerge through a of 3/4 timber the shorter ones not do. There might still be a few of the long ones to be found in like to ancient hardware but the dominance of Bunnings has ensured your choice is very when it comes to hardware.

plumbing supplies stores come up with them on although some of the bigger may be able to get them in, provided the is big enough, which, in this it clearly will not be.

The bushings are into position by electrical lock nuts, which are except in plastic now. back nuts can be used but they may have to be artificially down, as they have no resistance to unwinding over

When it comes to the drive the specified 3/8 pipes and fittings prove to be impossible to acquire. The does mention that 1/2 can be if necessary, but that 3/8 is preferable to weight. You might have to go the 1/2 and console yourself that at the kid won’t get obese pushing all extra weight around.

as a woodworker, but not a metalworker, I was lulled a sense of foolhardy security by the that the task was within the of even the complete novice a hand drill. Having removed my thumb on the first task, I decided that it was to educate myself about the of metalworking. (The treacherous job was almost my undoing was drilling a 1/2 in the T pieces.) It was only after that I discovered that the 1/2 x 7 for which the holes were are not readily available here If you want 7 (actually 180 mm.) you only get it in M12, unless you get a cup bolt.

Nevertheless, it pays to up on metal drilling, and a metal for the drill press is probably a good investment.

One of the really instructions is to drill out the wheel to 1/2 to accept a copper tube of 1/2 internal diameter. for the 1/2 bolt A drill of the exact diameter of the is then used to expand the to accept the bearing. What be meant is that the hole is to the outside diameter of the tube. But the here is that our tubing is as O.D. not I.D. so 1/2 tubing not accept a 1/2 bolt anyway, bearing in mind that the of a bolt refers to its thread and not its shank, which is a bit narrower. the half inch copper in question is sometimes labelled 15 mm. instead of 12.7 mm.).

So, you will have to find combination of axle bolts, tubing and reamers which result in a good fit.

frustrations are not peculiar to the Bugatti It seems that all overseas have some limitations on because of our paucity of materials in and whereas our friends across the can gather up their materials in a trip to their local we have constantly to be on the lookout for the throughout the project, which it difficult to plan ahead. But is no reason to delay, so.

1. The Kingpins

after a few days of scrounging hardware shops and plumbing I was able to come up with the for this kingpin. The axle still has its head attached, will need to be removed for the to go on, and the back of the pipe which for the 3 nipple still has its thread on it. can be removed later, or left on if it not interfere.

The brass, which is through, substitutes for the 1 nipple, and the nuts on the bushings are standard back nuts. They need a bit of Loctite on them to them working loose. But what we have is a unit will fit into the space between the cross members of the and which should do the job.

The shown here uses all thread instead of the 1 nipple, and a 4 instead of a 3 nipple.

All this on the king pins comes out of for the construction of the car as laid down in the because I was keen to ensure I could actually acquire the material. But the first task is to make the wheels.

Some care has been taken to that the wheels look the original Bugatti wheels, and bicycle wheels are not catered The actual wheel discs are cut 12 wide stock, but since are over 15 in diameter they to be made up in two sections joined These days it is easy to get hold of some laminated in widths of 405 mm. so they can be cut out of a single Whereas the plans call for sabre sawing of the outlines, you probably save yourself a deal of anxiety if you go to the trouble of yourself a trammel for the saw, so the circumferences are truly circular.

A of different diameter discs to be cut for these wheels, so make that the trammel is adjustable for

I constructed a simple trammel a piece of 6 mm. ply wood with a diameter lag screw in one end and some sided tape on the other. The jig saw was on top of the ply with the tape on its sole, that the distance between the and the close edge of the saw blade was the radius. Adjustments can be made by either the screw or the tape and The saw is then placed tangentially the stock, and the screw is driven it at the point which will be its

This can be repeated three times after the first using the uncut edges of the for the tangential placement each

The trammel for the circular cuts four holes for the screw (or and the double sided tape. The travels

in the kerf between the of tape.

The age old problem with saws is deviation of the blade, and a circle seems to be the worst thing to do for deviation. My saw deviates from the work piece, but if it towards a larger radius have to be used so as not to undercut the diameter.

To square up the edges the initial cut out is performed I set up a carousel on the table saw, whose is thick enough not to wander.

Of this cannot be used on diameters, such as are encountered on the ply rings which are attached to the discs. Here, the sabre saw can be as the smaller thickness of the ply is less to deflect the blade.

The wheel is such that the total of wood inside the tyre is 1-1/8, which does not much to go inside a 2.125 but after cutting all these I’m not arguing!

What I argue, however, is the suitability of wheels in the first place. they look all very I have noticed that the have started to warp as as they were cut. some bicycle wheels be more practical.

If the authentic is important, laminated wheels up of three 1/4 ply discs would be stable. However, I am committed so, on to the rims discs.

These can be cut in circumference while attached to the so as to ensure that they fit the perfectly. Their attachment to an solid surface also prevent splintering of the ply where the crosses the grain. In a short a full set of wheels and rims are

The inner circumference of these is a more difficult proposition. To splintering here, I score the line on both sides a scribe, and deepen the score it makes a significant cut through the of the outer plies. Then, I cut but not quite to the line with a saw, and finish the job with a sole spokeshave, carefully up to the scored line.

As long as the circumference of the ring is rounded the rest can be done on the router after the ring is glued to the Just remember to keep the which hold the two together out of the of the router bit. Brads are at approximately 3 centres to hold the onto the wheel, and yellow is alright, since this will be protected from by its location inside the tyre.

The of these rims is to reinforce the and to thicken them where meet the inside of the tyres. The cut out is used to manufacture the brake which attach to the inside of the These latter members act in with the spoke discs on the to hold the tyres onto the There is a discrepancy in the plans the dimension of the brake discs.

They are shown to have of 12-1/2, whereas the instruction to cut them to 12-1/4. The correct is 12-1/2. The rim discs are 13 inside so there is only a 1/4 gap between the of the brake disc and the inside of the (the two 1/4 making up the 1/2 difference in

The composite structure now looks this:

A wheel with its disc applied and rounded

When it comes time to cut the discs, no actual diameter is Instead, a template on the plans is (Actually, two templates are given). the diameter of both of them is which can’t be right, they have to be the same as the discs.

The instruction with one of the states: After drawing of pattern and cutting outside of dia. should be close the Why not make the pattern accurate and cut and right on the lines?

Now, the disc is held out from the of the wheel by a 3/4 thick hub, and its edge is held against the by a ring which is screwed the spokes and the wheel, clamping the between spoke disc and The outside diameter of the ring is so the diameter of the spoke disc be the same when in position. But of the hub holding out its centre, this that it should be cut greater 12-1/2, not less.

If you work it out it really be cut to a diameter of 12-3/4. if you have already cut the spoke to 12-1/2, as I have, there only be a discrepancy of less 1/8 all round, which will be by the tyre anyway, so it does not matter.

But it is a warning about the on the plans, especially on the templates. all need to be double checked cutting.

The hubs which to the outside of the wheels and hold out the discs are to be 3-1/8 in diameter, so they can accept the fixation of the 3 which support the wheel I have only been to acquire 4 flanges, so I have to the diameter of the hubs accordingly, and the diameter of the central part of the discs. The spokes on my car will to be 1/2 shorter than on the Stevensons’

Bugatti Electric Cars

The spoke disc is marked up and against the flange.

The cuts are with a jig saw and smoothed with a

Making these wheels is no

Incidentally, the diagrams in the plans the 3 flanges drilled for four bolts, which are 1/4 in diameter. The flanges,as can be seen above, are without countersinking, and the holes are So the bolts which hold the onto the wheels will to be beefed up to 1/2.

They be a tight enough fit not to require However, the proximity of these holes to the edge of the wooden may make for a weakness. The rear on the non-drive wheel passes a hub close to its edge, and the recommendation is to reinforce it with a hose

I think that would be a precaution here too. To the you can see the screw fastener of the hose on the hub.

Once the parts are all cut and the construction of the wheel proceeds these lines:

1. Centre the disc over the wheel and it on temporarily around a line 1 in its outer circumference.

2. Centre the hub over the other side of the and screw and glue it to the wheel.

4. all the parts so that they can be again over the screw and disassemble them again.


5. Fit the over the wheel, by cutting notches on one side of it if necessary. And it is I got by with three cuts and a of a lot of leverage.

You need a hacksaw to get the wire cable in the inner of the tyre, and something to use as a tyre The flat spanner I use to put the blades on my saw was just right for the job. candle wax rubbed onto the rim of the helped slide the tyre rim the wood too. The cuts are on the inside surface of the tyre, but do not have to be deep enough to around the brake disc.

I that is just in case. The (and, therefore, unseen) of the tyre is easily determined in the of my tyres, which have characters on them on one side. what one would expect of a !!

6. Reassemble the parts, centre the and screw down again, the tyre permanently between the disc and wheel on the inside, and the spoke disc and wheel on the The plans say to cut relieving kerfs on to of the spoke disc to allow it to the bend, but I found this Gentle and slow clamping was all was necessary. An occasional superficial crack opened up on the outside the tension was greatest, but they not a problem.

The spoke disc was with epoxy resin getting its final colour, and soaked into the cracks and them down.

Nevertheless, as the trimming of the spoke disc was on a router table, it would be enough to continue the circumferential on a small router bit to achieve the which are called for.

The disc is gently, and then pushed into position, here because the tyre is not yet on.

It probably be a good idea to the parts before their assembly, to avoid smudges on the etc. but after the struggle to get one tyre on there is no way I am going to it off again. Perhaps for the other wheels!

A coat of silver on the disc and ring blends in with the galvanised hex head metal screws, and the antique recommended for the wheel disc

in the works well too.

The of making the wheel components the way I on a carousel arrangement through a spindle, means that I can be that the hole is exactly in the so all I have to do now is enlarge it to fit the axle and The wheel is placed on a drill and the small diameter drill has been used up to now is run down the hole to centre the wheel the drill. The wheel is clamped position and the drill bit is changed for a one, up to the 1/2 necessary.

With the copper tube inserted through the enlarged and the outer flange snugged over it, holes for the flange can now be drilled through, and the inner can be connected to the bolts and tightened position.

The hubs for these consist of the aforementioned flanges, which are screwed 1/2 male to 1/4 bushings. The bushings have to be out to accept the 1/2 outside diameter tube, into which the rods are inserted. 1/2 to 1/4 bushings are not here. The nearest I could up with was a 1/2 male to 1/2 capillary in brass.

Apart from the metals causing some with corrosion, which can be these seem to be even useful than the bushings, they have only a internal lip to be drilled out to 1/2 in order to a 1/2 channel all the way through.

The flange, the and the constructed hub.

When the and outer hubs are finally together through the wheel, the of the brake disc is pulled contact with the wheel. At its it is held away from the by the tyre. So, it takes on a concave

This may seem wrong, but it is the way of doing it with this method. By careful alignment, the bolts and the central hub unions (or should all line up perfectly, and a 1/2 copper tube is inserted from the outside union to the one, and is trimmed off so that it is a little longer than the from one union end to the other. In way, washers which are fitted over the axles, against the copper tube, and not the hubs. The quality of the axle depends heavily on the snugness of fit the inside of the copper tube and the of the bolt which acts as the Unfortunately, at the moment the inside of the copper tube is 10.8 mm. and the of the shank of the axle bolt is mm. so some adjusting is going to to happen before the wheels can be to the car.

The copper tube is only 0.9 mm. thick, so reaming it is not a proposition. Instead, the axle will have to be machined to fit. That means its zinc coating will be and it will rust, so the best will be to replace the bolts stainless steel.

304 stainless is not too

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