2 5 Is VERY underpowered What more can I do? JeepForum com

17 Апр 2014 | Author: | Комментарии к записи 2 5 Is VERY underpowered What more can I do? JeepForum com отключены

This isn’t rocket You need Spark, Fuel and Air for With my 2.5L I did all of

the above and a hugh difference. But that’s the you have to do them in conjunction

each other. Doing one only net small changes and you notice a small gain but

you have choke points in the system.

1) Open up your air by getting rid of your stock air There are two choke

points or in your stock air box. By so you will greatly increase the air

and temp of the air being mixed. is where a cold air intake into play and

allow more dense air into system.

2) Open up your body and port your to match. If you just throw

4.0L (larger)TB on your there is a restriction of the Intake smaller. If you

look down it, you will see the extra surface that has to be ground down to

the TB. A TB spacer doesn’t do much to the but I have found that it have

a cooling effect the helix design and therefor increase the HP upgrade a bit.

3) your fuel delivery to your larger air flow is where you upgrade

your 17lb fuel injectors to a 4 pintle Bosch Type III EV1 injector. This

allows fuel to be mixed and atomized the cooler, more dense and air flow

volume. Stock have only one pintle or jet Bosch type III EV1 19lb

have 4 pintles or jet holes for a spray pattern and mist. on how you drive,

this equates to a more burn for better gas mileage or a burn for better

power and response at the top end.

4) Hotter to burn the mixture. By upgrading coil-wires and plugs, you allow


system to burn off the better for more power. I used a coil (Screamen

Deamon) Live wires and Champion gaped to .080 for a much burn.

5) Open up your for your new system to breath. rid of the stock muffler

and cat and replacing with high flow allows your system to

(breath) much better and your system to move the gases out at a

quicker rate.

I went to an 14 electric fan. By the belt powered fan, it drag

on your little 120Hp motor. Here are a few to think about. Approximately

for year old your motor is, you 1 hp due to age wear and tear. Stock

new 2.5L motor is only My YJ is 19 years old. Theoretically, around 101 HP.

small gains of 4-5 HP is on this size motor. that has the 4.0L at 265Hp

won’t notice a 5 Hp gain. I not tested my motor but I think in the 143 Hp

Yesterday a 4.0L TB from a Cherokee arrived by UPS — to be on a 2000

2.5L TJ. With the of a neighbor who teaches auto at the local high

school cool woman who decided to it a day project for some of her

students), I everything in stages. Checked the air too.

Results, with stock TB no spacer)as baseline:

(1) Poweraid only — +2 HP, 8% less (Evidently, the helix bore,

of which extends beyond TB opening, actually cuts on airflow. But

the spacer does and extend air volume, hence increase.)

(2) 4.0L TB only + 6 HP, 16% more airflow (no surprise

(3) 4.0L TB grind out intake to match lower TB opening + 13 HP, 29% more

airflow (Wow! out the intake opening did make a

(4) 4.0L TB Poweraid helix grinded-out intake opening +16 HP, 2% less

airflow from #3 helix bore is still off airflow, but spacer

is still increasing air volume)

(5) 4.0L TB out helix bore in Poweraid to match lower TB opening

intake opening (the Big — + 24 HP, 39% more airflow

again; the optimal configuration,

It should be noted that out the helix in the Poweraid spacer leaves

a partial helix in the — the main difference that the helix now has rounded

rather than sharp My auto mechanics-teacher neighbor that

these rounded are actually more aerodynamic the original sharp ones,

and still spin air — so the pulse-organizing effect I mentioned in an

post will be retained, if in there is such an effect.

So, to I ground out on the helix bore of the spacer, and ground

out the intake both to match the lower of the 4.0L TB I swapped

in. Dyno-ed airflow, results: +24 HP, 39% more

Seat-of-the-pants impression: idles more torque on the low end,

acceleration through the midrange, and performance above 2700 No

hesitation, no engine codes.

One suggestion: if you grind out your opening, be VERY CAREFUL

aluminum filings in the intake We stuffed everything with cloth —

sticky which can be purchased at a hardware — rather than towels.

The tack cloth about 95% of the filings, but there was a small mess

in the intake. We a lot of the leftover out with a shopvac, but we

had to use tack cloth attached to a thin screwdriver to mop out the runners.

On the TJ are also four open attaching to the intake below the

TB you’ll have to clean too. It took longer to out the intake than

it did to bore out the but it can and needs to be done.

Finally, say that the TJ has a two-stage KN filter an MSD ignition

system coil, Champion truck plugs, a delta-40 catback,

and a case-full of 1 synthetic oil. All or part of may have a synergistic

effect on my since mods usually each other.

Cheers, GP

Info: (1) The intake is soft so we used a medium tungsten

followed by a fine fluted bit, followed by a fine I’ll admit it’s not

— hard to get consistency the runner walls which are flush

to the intake opening. The is a harder grade of metal, and even

when clamped in a Doesn’t look pretty at least on the inside.

(2) Tested at 1800 RPM and 2800 RPM an average between the two — but

the were fairly similar.

(3) We the following: At 2800 RPM, was up by about 16% with #5

option At 1800 RPM, torque was up by 14%.

Again, folks, the mods and the synergistic effects your numbers may

be different on what you have your mileage, mechanical conditions,

etc. I give this as a general indication.

Ambient air 74 degrees Humidity: about 35%

let me say hello to the group. I am a tech for and Chrysler, electrical

General Motors EV1

and drivability are my of expertise. Now I’m going to add my .02

1. I done this mod on my own 92 wrangler a 2.5L engine with

results. The 2.5L has a KN stock air filter w/ a stock air box. the

in the air box cover removed, a tri-y header (manufacturer unknown,

was to me), stock exhaust the cat, an Accel super (direct OEM

replacement) w/ Belden core wires and factory gapped at .035. I have

gears w/ 35×12.50 General and I can say this motor screams. The

in stock form would not the jeep w/ 33 tires. I did all the mods the

throttle body and put the 35’s on. At 65 mph a 15mph headwind, I would

the throttle pushed to the floor to maintain speed in 4th gear, the throttle

body swap, it was putting a 4.0L under the Under the same conditions,

I maintain speed w/ 1/4 to 1/3 throttle and my DRB III confirmed

it. It felt like I added 15 to 20 hp. end torque improved and overall

improved. Fuel milage constant, or slightly better on how heavy

my foot was.

2. Now on to the AIS If you look at the AIS motor and housings on th 2.5

and engines, you will notice tha the air passage seat where the AIS

seats is considerbly smaller on the than the 4.0L, so is the needle on the AIS

itself. You must transfer the AIS and housing from the 2.5L

body to the 4.0L throttle if you don’t and you use the 4.0L housing and

you may not get your idle speed to where it should be. Your AIS will be

fully closed or to it (0 to 2 steps). On TJ’s this can be a with the OBD

II, since it can trgger a in the PCM (target idle not reached), so be to

transfer it to the 4.0L throttle Be careful with the gasket it is not

separately. If done right and you access to a DRB II or DRB III or a code scanner

idle steps should be 14 to 18 steps in neutral, air off, if not you can

tune to get it in that range by the throttle stop screw, if you it more

than a 1/2 turn in direction, you better check installation.

3. Yes you do have to trim the manifold opening, mine had a 1/8 lip

the base and it does have a effect on air flow, enough to the gains

of doing the conversion. I a die grinder with a wide aluminum bit, on the

vehicle wuth rags in the intake runners. A shop vac to the filings

was used and make all filings and rags are removed. I the hole to the

size of the gasket and 2.5L gaskets are the same).

4. The adaptive memory after 100 of driving was practically unchanged

the swap meaning the PCM saw no ill effects the swap. Keep in mind

the MPI fuel injection is a speed/ based system and does not see an

in airflow like other that use a mass air flow instead it

sees changes in MAP and intake temperature (density in the manifold)

crankshaft speed and position, coolant temperature in all plus the O2

sensor at idle and throttle and then using alogrythims calculates the

injector to provide the correct fuel/air For all practical purposes you do

not need to about it, the computer seems to for the swap with

no problems.

5. For of you who still feel the need for fuel, you can try injectors from

a engine. These run approx. 10% single cylinder displacement is

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