Eric Peltzer’s Electric Bicycle

9 Апр 2014 | Author: | Комментарии к записи Eric Peltzer’s Electric Bicycle отключены
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My Electric Bicycle Project

I added an electric power onto a GT mountain bike. a 3 HP peak motor, it is much powerful than typical bicycles. The basic motivation to an electric bike was to have a fun and and environmentally friendly way to stay out my car for trips around town, and as a silent trail bike for the hills. I wanted to get some — this bike can be pedaled. When I first put together it was even more of a to ride than I had envisioned.

I seen 70 year old people get on bike and laugh like kids — it’s a magic hand is silently you along. This website describe the background of this electric vehicle, offer reflections on the electric and hybrid scene, and detail most of the and motor and batteries should you be in making one yourself. Though a bit of a project, a number of people actually made very bikes based on my basic

Attention: have you built an bike or vehicle based on design? Send me some photos and I’ll put them on a page!

Background: Why build an bike? Why use such a big motor?

I the idea of electric vehicles in and would love to have a electric car. I have a currently just about the thing available. However, technology hasn’t advanced to make a pure electric car yet.

I do think, however, light-weight, low-speed, short-range are wellt within the limits of battery-electric technology, so I set out to see what be done to make a more and longer-range motorized bike.

I live about 3 miles my favorite grocery store and my is at the top of a fairly long and steep biking and walking is just enough to be discouraging to me on a spur-of-the-moment However I love biking. I mountain bikes and folding

In looking for a motor to add to one of my bikes, I some ready-made bikes and that they are really fun to ride. The silence and effortless along is just magical. But the bikes and motor kits for at the time, such as the Curry the eBike, etc. were low power and really aren’t much faster up a steep than an unassisted bicycle.

The was the first decently powerful bike, though the company last long. (Electric companies seem to have a habit of making a big splash and then vanishing beneath the Now you can buy decent electric motor from Wilderness Energy and among others, but I was curious the nuts and bolts of things, and to learn more about what it takes to drive a with pure electric

I am a great fan of all electric vehicles and the new technologies closely. Hybrid are a tremendous technology that in my is the first step on the road to vehicles. Hybrids will drive the development of better and batteries, which is the only link to the puzzle. Hybrids of that are only charged by gasoline engines will to ‘plug-in’ hybrids that can be recharged at home or at charging This will lead to frugal use of fuel, but these will need much battery packs, which better and cheaper batteries have to be produced.

This will happen and is happening right now. batteries will become so better that the auto will start to produce that simply leave out the engine altogether — the battery electric vehicle. get me started on fuel cells and the hyped future ‘hydrogen This is interesting technology, but it to say that there are so many breakthroughs and logistic problems yet to be that I simply don’t see it within the next ten or fifteen

In other parts of this and in the Electric Bicycle FAQ, I a little more on the near and far technology, where I see it going, and the most promising developments

This is not really a build however.

Experienced tinkerers may a lot of ideas and solutions from my if they want to use them and them. There are parts and plenty of photos. This is now extremely robust and probably for larger electric vehicles, not bikes, up to three to five

Over the course of this I’ve made many discoveries, encountered issues and which all electric vehicle must face, and finally out some fairly simple I’ve fitted a number of driveline systems which from simple single to the present double reduction a heavy-duty toothed belt and Earlier versions are shown on pages.

This bike well, is stone-reliable and nearly and all the major components are available or at power transmission supply Note that I had to weld and key components like the jackshaft using ball bearings, and the sprocket that clamps on to the at the wheel hub. The right and design solutions to this were hard to come by, and I want to share what learned to promote what I a pretty amazing form of

V1.5 — Dual Belt/Chain Drive

The current is what I am calling v1.5, is the same bike as v1.4 but some basic changes: a new belt drive system a chain final drive. the motor drives a belt spins an intermediate shaft or mounted next to the motor and on ball bearings. This then drives a chain down to the rear bike Same motor, and all other (Earlier versions are documented on pages.)


Scott 24 V DC, 1 hp motor (3 hp max) still available from

Gates Power Grip GT2 primary drive

1/2 steel on custom shaft ball mount — 3:1 reduction

#35 final drive to rear — 2.77:1 reduction

overall gearing gives top of about 27 mph

2 x 12V Hawker AGM-type acid batteries, 13 Ah each; replaced by BB 12v 16Ah batteries AGM)

4QD Scoota 180 speed controller 180 amp with optional regenerative

24 V charger charges in 2-5 hours

pedal in all 18 speeds

batteries and removable in 10 minutes

range 15 on the flat depending on pedal

weight 85 lbs.

Motor. The motor is 24 V DC, brushed, and is rated at 1 hp watts) continuous power and 41 amps. It cost about however in 2008 I see the price is to $350. This model no.

This motor is available from Don’t let the fool you, this will put out 2.5HP peak and can be over-volted (judiciously) to 36V where it put out 1.5 HP continuous and around 4HP peak. If crazy enough to gear it up, it propel a bike to around (please don’t do this.) So the is pretty heavy and suitable for larger vehicles; for a bicycle, a alternative might be one of the motors at such as the 500 watt 36V motor for $60.

Cloudelectric also has a of motors from $80 to $170 would be very suitable to your budget and power A very interesting choice is ‘Motor 36 Volt 1000 model that has an integral clutch. This can also be run at 24V to get 535 of power. (I may have to switch this sounds like an motor for a project like

You cannot just use any old motor to a bike. People often ask me, can I use a from an electric drill, or a motor from a motorcycle or a The short answer is no, these are generally not suitable at all.

the efficiency is poor, they overheat, they are not powerful the speed is too high, they’re too or any number of other reasons. The is a very high quality with high efficiency, cooling, and ball bearings. At 16 it is pretty heavy but motors in power range were to find five years

If I were doing this I would undoubtedly use a lighter of the type that has subsequently available. There has been a influx of scooters and smaller vehicles, and many of the motors on vehicles would be suitable for a There are also a number of used by people making robots or battelbots. These are high power and quite However battlebots don’t need efficiency so this is to look out for.

Efficiency of that 80% should be looked for at a range of speeds and currents.

In my a bike needs a motor of at 400 watts and probably not more 1000 watts. Any less and you as well not bother, and any more and the will probably be large, expensive, deplete your in a flash, or all of the above.

The reason for a this powerful is simple: I live on a steep hill. a Zap or a US ProDrive bike rated at 400 goes a decent 17 mph on flat they slow to 3 to 5 mph on a decent I can pedal that fast.

I have ridden a Schwinn the Currie US Pro drive. It was actually I would recommend it to anyone as a good turn-key kit solution. I wanted to go faster and be able to get up a

The simple fact is that you from 5 to 10 times as much to go a given speed on a decent This is why a car that only 12 hp to go 60 mph on flat roads has an engine can put out 100 to 200 hp.

The Scott motor was used in go-carts and Electrathon vehicles. are efficiency competitions using closed-course battery electric carrying one person. The point is to go the distance in a given amount of So the efficiency is obviously pretty The motor cost $269 shipped, and weighs about 16 It has ball bearings and massive fins and is built to last.

do not wear out very fast at this is not really a concern. It around 41 amps while a continuous 1 hp. Put a greater load on it and draw well over 100 and produce up to 3 hp. This is why it needs a 180 amp

More about controllers

Speed Reduction and Gearing: a big . I will spend quite a bit of here describing the speed scheme, as this is the most problem to solve in fitting a to a bike or other small EV. The big with all motorization schemes on is this: how to reduce the speed of a motor, which may turn at of 3000 rpm, to the necessary of a bicycle rear wheel. A 26 bike wheel at 20 mph is turning about 265 rpm. The overall required is therefore between 8:1 and 11:1 depending on what top you wish to achieve.

Now it is certainly to simply bolt, say, a chain sprocket to the rear and drive it with a 13-tooth sprocket off the motor. But this is a large wheel sprocket 15 in diameter) and, critically, the would be unbearably noisy. My observation about chain is that if any chain sprocket faster than about 750 it will start to make a If only there were a quiet 3:1 gearbox you could on to the Scott, the final 3:1 or 4:1 ratio be easily achieved with a and sprockets to the rear wheel.

I don’t know of such a ready made, and a gear box is difficult to machine from Straight cut gears also to make a whining noise.

big problem of gearing down the has lead to the development of the hub motor. is simply a bicycle wheel hub a motor built in, which can be spoked to a rim. Such hub either have gears in, or they are very particularly to just turn at a very low while still having power and torque. This is a trick.

It’s much easier to a motor that derives its from spinning at higher At any rate, at the time I could not many hub motors, and the few that available were expensive, a gear whine, and were Also, a hub motor has one set gearing by and you can’t alter it.

I wanted where I could experiment different gear ratios, top and hill climbing ability.

I come up with this drive to achieve the primary reduction of 3:1. The dual-reduction system is much more than anything I have before. It’s a little complicated but slippage is absolutely and I feel confident that system would be able to even more power.

is important because the Scott is often bumped up to 36 volts than 24 and I may eventually switch

Why belt primary drive? two chains be easier? Basically, as I belts are much quieter at RPM. At 3000 rpm a chain be about as loud as many gas engines. An electric bike be whisper quiet, and this drive is.

Many electric use a single straight chain however, they go faster having smaller wheels, so need less speed and the wind and tire noise and tend to mask the racket the makes. Plus, carters really care much noise.

I used a Gates GT2 belt. This timing has rounded teeth so it’s than other belts. The are closely spaced for better on small sprocket wheels.

is the 5mm pitch type. At 25mm the short belt is much likely to stretch and is easily by pivoting the jackshaft mount — three of the mounting are slotted, so the mount can pivot the un-slotted fourth hole. this wide belt like overkill? The Gates Co. has nice simple little software they give on their website that tell you what size and of belt you will need. You in the power, gear reduction, and a couple of other things and the will give you some

I used the program and this was one of the and what do you know, it has been Has never been adjusted and and has slipped or worn. The jackshaft is a 1/2 steel shaft running on two R8 ball bearings. The mounting and bearing housing is welded

Sorry that I don’t a diagram of this but hopefully you get the layout from the photos.

If are so great, then why chain drive? Since the jackshaft is now to 1000 rpm max, running a down to the rear wheel now sense. There is a reason so bikes and motorcycles still use chain final drive. It sense here because the run is and the available space narrower, and is much stronger and less than a long narrow

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At this speed the chain may be audible at top speed, but not noisy, and the and tire noise while will actually be louder. A doesn’t need to be tensioned as tightly as a belt. Finally, have a master link makes assembly and removal easier, like when tires and repairing flats. are endless.)

The #35 chain is a very common size. It has a shorter pitch bicycle chain but is much (Bicycle chain is made to allow for the side to side resulting from different gear combinations.)

You will the extra bar running in between the from the jackshaft to the axle. is a reinforcement and has an adjuster nut at the lower end to proper chain tension. The bar to maintain proper driveline — the Scott motor can put out a amount of torque and the motor and bicycle frame will and compress under heavy loads without this

Actually it attaches to the bike near the axle using the rack mount on the dropout.

The parts are as follows. They ordered from Bearing Chain in Las Vegas at

GATES POWER GRIP GT2 Gates part # 9390-8080

motor sprocket: GATES Gates part # 7709-5021

jackshaft sprocket GATES Gates part # 7709-2064

sprocket hub mount for above: 1610 1/2 TAPER LOCK part # 7858-1608

jackshaft bearings: MRC part # R8Z $11.56 ea. (2)

machined from 1/2 stainless stock

jackshaft chain #35 chain, 13 tooth MARTIN 1/2 bore $6.91

rear chain sprocket: #35 chain, 36 MARTIN 35B36 $11.56 on my lathe to fit)

chain: #35 that I had lying around length is 50 links (100 — 37-1/2 long

A of machining, fabrications, and modifications I had to do The jackshaft mount is the most part to make and took time. The jackshaft and motor to be very rigidly connected and yet adjustable to set the belt tension.

I a 1/4 aluminum plate and welded a alum. tube to this. are two diagonal braces welded to — you can only see the upper one in the The braces just clear the

Then the tube was bored in the for the two ball bearings. It also has grooves for retaining rings to the bearing in place. The 1/2 shaft is 5 long, also with grooves.

There are a total of 4 steel 1/4-20 allen holding the whole thing to the of the Scott motor using the tapped holes. As I mentioned, of the holes in the jackshaft plate are curved slots to allow for to tension the belt, the whole pivoting a little around the bolt.

The 21-tooth motor was bored to 5/8 on my lathe. It is fixed to the shaft with a 1/8 steel pin or ‘roll pin’. I had to drill a for this pin through the sprocket and shaft. Roll pins are stronger than set screws, and are pressed or driven in, so they come loose.

They’re also easier to than Woodruff key-ways. The 64 tooth belt sprocket in solid steel and was ridiculously Aluminum was not available.

So I drilled it out to lighten it as you can see. The chain bolts to the hub of the belt sprocket two 10-32 allen screws, the for which I drilled and tapped.

The is mounted to the bicycle frame on a made 1/8 thick stainless bracket. The whole bracket to tabs welded to the bike with three allen The chain, drive belt and can be removed from the bike in 3 minutes.

Finally, I had to attach a to the rear wheel. I finally to just try clamping a sprocket to the This may seem like a solution but I have seen it on a number of other applications.

It has reliable and has not damaged the spokes at Sometimes simple and direct the day. For those of you familiar the Currie US ProDrive, a very electric drive kit for bikes, is basically the same way they their motor plate to the wheel. Looks somewhat

Fine, but it works, bolts to a completely unmodified bike and has been trouble free.

I by boring out a standard type-B sprocket (the kind an integral offset hub) to the hole would just fit the protruding wheel hub. locates the sprocket nicely on the hub Then I basically faced the hub to nearly nothing on the lathe, enough to space the sprocket out from the spokes. Then I 9 holes for 10-32 screws. The go through the spaces where the cross.

I made three clamp plates with holes each for the inside of the

For off-road use I intend to get a different with a knobby tire and a sprocket to lower the gearing for hill climbing. A couple of chain links will it easy to switch out.

The net of all is that finally I have got it right. I can whack the throttle and closed at any speed and there be no belt slippage of any kind. The thing I did was to go down the street and this steep rocky that gave the old bike

Even with the relatively gearing, the new driveline shot me up the thing. I even popped a wheelie over the top of it. That never happened before.

Now I can use all of the torque this Scott can put out.

Interesting » Electric Cars
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Interesting » Electric Cars
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